Method of making stitch-down shoes.



w. 1. KELLY.

l METHOD 0F MAKING STITCH-DOW OES. APPLlcArlou mw ocr. t1, I slz. n:

ITNgssEs.- I C l INVENTOR D Will/iam Jlieu, l BY n l NEVE T.21.19l7. l

Patented Dec, 25, 1917.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM J'. KELLY, OF READING, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOB OF ONE-THIRD T0HARRY I. BERNHARD, 0F BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

METHOD 0F MAKING STITCH-DOWN SHOES.

Specification of Letters latent.

Patented Dee. 25, 1911.

Application led October 17, 1912, Serial No. 728,206. Renewed September21, 1917. Serial No. 192,681.

object of the invention is to produce a shoe of the character specifiedwhich can be readily re-soledl In the shoes of this character madeheretofore, wherein the lining is lasted independently of the upper, ithas been` the practice to secure the outer sole directly to the upperhence when the outer sole became worn or detached, the upper was leftpractically unsecured, and accordingly, it was impossible for the orinary cobbler or repairer of shoes to apply a new sole thereto.

1n the present invention, the upper is secured to the insole, either bysewing or otherwise, whereupon the outer sole is attached by se aratemeans to the insole and the upper. n a. preferred form of construction awelt is employed, which rests upon the top of the outer edge of theupper, and together with the insole and outer sole, is secured to theupper.

In contradistinction to stitch down shoes heretofore constructed, theinsole of the present shoe is channeled and slitted to pro vide upperand lower marginal flaps, the lower Hup pro'ecting beyond the upper flapand, in one ein odinient of the invention the linin is secured,preferably by cement, within the slitted part of the insole, the edge ofthe lining extending inwardly and bein attached by cement to the uppermargina flap, whereas the upper is attached to the lower marginal flapof said insole.

Utlier features of the invention, and the advantages thereof, will beapparent from the hereinafter detailed description.

In the accompanying drawings, I have illustrated a practical embodimentof the invention but the constructions shown therein are to heunderstood as illustrative, only, and not as denning the limits of theinvention.

Figure 1 is a side elevation illustrating the first sta e in theoperation of lasting an insole an an upper lining county of Berks, andState of' 1n Fig. 4.

Re erring more particularly to the construction ilustrated in Figs. 1 to5, inclusive, A designates a last, B an insole, C an upper lining, D anupper, E an outer sole an F a welt, which parts are assembled and unitedin the following manner.

The last A may be of the usual or any' preferred form, and to the upperface of this last is applied insole B, the latter havin a. channel bproducing a li b which is ree at one edge. .The insole is channeledalong its edge hy any usual or preferred means, thereby producing a lipb which is free with respect to the edge portion of the insole proper.After placing the insole upon the last, lining C is drawn tightly aroundthe last in the usual wa The edge portion c of this lining is fol edinwardly within the channel b of the insole. Said inwardly foldededge cis drawn tightly around the edge portion of the insole and below lip bthereof. It is preferred to attach the inwardly folded edge c of thelining to the edge portion of the insole. This attachment may beeffected in any desired way or by any suitable means, but in one form ofthe invention the edge c of the lining is secured to the insole by anadhesive which operates to retain the inwardly folded edge of the liningwithin the channel of the insole during the operations of lasting theupper and completin the shoe.

The next ste in tie operation is to last the upper D. his lastingoperation is carinsole on a line within the 'unattached free edgesthereof. This attachment of the upperto the insole may be e'ectedfin anysu1tyto unite the upper to the insole by an opera Aupper throuvh thematerial composing 25 i tion which practisesthe well known stitch downmethod. According to this operation the u per is lasted and its edge .Zfolded outward y as described, and while the up er is, held taut a rowof staples G is riven through the upper andthe lip- 'of the insole, saidstaples passing from vthe outside of th sai u per andtie materialoftheinsole p b'.

e.ends of the staplesy may protrude be- 'ond the` material vcomposingthe insole lip .'z-soas to be clenched against the upper face oftheinsole, or these staples `may be allowed -tofextend beyond said face ofthe insole so vas :tobecome embedded inthe material composing the outerVsoleE whenthe latter is assemtlnled or attached. 'v Although it ispreferred `to staple the upper to the insole accordin =to the stitchdown method, vit will bedistinctly understood that the method is notrestricted to the employment of staples `forthispurpose, for the reasonthat the u er'may' be attached to the lip of the inso e )'agrow oistitches, or any equivalent fastenings, `an essential feature `of thispart ofv thel invention beingvthatthe means for attaching the upper tothe'insole shall be inde` pendent. of the means for attaching the outersole and the welt to the shoe,rand a further essential feature beingthat the attaching means .f or uniting the upper to the insole shall bepositioned within the felt in order that said welt may conceal theattaching means between the upper and the insole.

The next step in the operation consistsin uniting the outer sole E andwelt F tothe insole and the outwardly folded edge d of the upper. Thisunion is usually effected by stitching the several parts together afterthey shall have been assembled, the line of Stitches being,r indicatedat H, although any other means for attaching the several parts maybeemployed. In this connection it is desired to call attention to the factthat the seam H whereby the outer sole and the welt ,are attached ltothe insole and the upper is tachment of theupper to the insole. Byreference to Fi s. 4 and 5 it will be noted that outer sole ispositioned over the last and the insole, whereas the welt 'F ispositioned upon the outwardly folded edge d of vthe up er, the outersole and the welt being thus rought into proper relation to the plroperattachment of the parts. he welt is below the folded edge d of the uper, and the lip b of the insole, and said e ge d ofthe upper isintermediate the outer sole andvthe'welt. This gives la desirable finishto the shoe and imparts to the outer sole the appearance of increasedthickness.

insole and the upper, respectivelyrforl the` As shown in Figs. 4 and 5,a suitable filling I may be placed between the inner sole and theouter'sole, but the employment of." this filling is not an essentialfeature andi. may be used or omitted at the option of the manufacturer.

After the lining shall have beeii lasted and` u attached to the insole,and prior to lasting shoes, and the shoe has the 'appearance of a thickouter. sole.

A most important'advantage secured by -V the invention is the facilityofrepairing or re-soling the shoe by an ordinary ,cobbler or shoe maker.When the outer sole is cut or detached from the shoe, the upper,the.lning and the insole remain intact because the insole is attached tothe lining and the upper. The new soleis placed in position and Vit' issewed through the ed e of the insole and the upper to the welt; ifdesired the welt may be allowed to remain in position when repairing theshoe or during such repair the welt and the outer sole may be seu-'ed tothe uppera'nd the insole. Y v

Having thus fully described the invention, what. l clliim as new, a'nddesire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The Amethod of making stitch down shoes whichconsists in placing upona last an insole the edge portion of which is'chan` `V neled and slittedlo provide upper and lower marginal flaps, the lower-flapprojecting befyoud the upper flap, lasting an upperlini'ng and folding,r the flowerlmarginal portion thereof inwardly within theslit between and folding.the lower marginal portion thereol` outwardly- ;upou said" lower iap,stapling the outturued portion of the upper to the insole within.- thechannelthercof in 21.25 -said upper and low'rr iaps, lasting an upperfslioes which consists in positioning upon of said u per linin x uppersubstantially within cfthe insole and to the lower 'marginalfap an outersole to the i ,a last an A'nsole the marginal portion of whichis'slitted to produce upper and lower marginal flaps, lasting an u perand an upper lining so that the margine portion is positioned withinsaid slitte `part of t e insole attaching an' infolded angular portionof the up `r substantially within the slitted art o the in sole and tothe lower flap t ereof, and attaching an outer Soleto the upper and the,lower marginal flap of the' insole. ,l

3. The method" of making stitch down` shoes which consists in placing uonl a last an insole the marginal portion o which'is slittedftproduce uper and lower man..

ginal flaps 'separately asting an upper and an'u er ining so that themarginal portion oi) said upper linin is positioned with" in the slittedportion o 'the insole,; folding the edge portion of the upper in anoutward direction and into- "lappmg relation lto the lower marginaliiia) o the insole, attaching ly lasted an .angular inwar ortion of thethereof, and attachin lower marginal ap o the insole and to theoutwardly folded edge portion of the u per.

4. The method of making stitch own shoes with consists -'in positioningupon a last an insole the marginal portion ofwhich is slitted for adistance less than the width of said insole to produce upper and lowermarginal flaps, separately lasting an 'upper and anupper lining so as toositionthe marginal portion of said upper ining within' the slittedportion of tlie insole andto position an angular inwardly extendingportion of the upper into contact with the lower mar 'nal flap,separately attaching the mar'- gina portions of the upper lining and theupper to tlie'upper marginal flap and the lower marginal flaprespectively, and attach` ing an outer sole to the insole andthe u per.

5. The method of making stitch own shoes which consists in lpositioningupon a last an insole the marginal portion only of which is slitted fora distance equal to a fractional part of the width of the insole so asto produce upper and lower marglnal flaps,lseparately lasting an upperand an upper lining so as to position the marginal portion of said upperlininT within the slitted part of the insole, attacliing the marginalportion of the upper lining to the upper marginal flap of the insole,attaching then attachin f' wardly turne edge of the upper to the lower'4,margin l ilap of Vaxi angular inwardly lasted portion of the insolebeingV separate from the attachment last an'insole the marginal portionof which is slitted lor a. distance equal to a fractional art of thewidth of said insole S0 aS to proyuce u per and lower mar 'nal flaps,separatel)4 asting an upper'an an upper lining so as to position themarginal portion of the upper lining within'the slitted part of theinsole, attaching the marginal portionof thefupper lining within thechannel of the insole, staplin an angular inwardly lasted' portion ofsai upper to the lower marginal flap of. the` insole,- 'and attaching anoutersole to the insole and the upper, said attachment of the outer solo.being on a line exterior to and separate from theiattacliment' of theupper totheiiiaole.

7. The meth 4anni makingiitiich down* shoes which consists in placiu uoula last* an insole the edgeportion of'w i is slitted d insole .sof as'to produce 1u r linin and fol the ed thereof inlivpirdly an attachingsaaidinwariy folded edge-within the slitted artof the insole,

lasting an upperand fol ingthe-'edge there- 1 tto -thelower marn ginalflap ,olthe insole, attaching au angular of outwardly with ortono'f-theupper to the, lower mar nal ap of the insole, placingan outer soe in position for attachmenttothe insole, and-l the outer sole and theoutt'lie insole.

8. The method of making stitch down shoefpwhich consists in placin u n alast an insole the edge'portion of w ic is slitted for a distance equalto a fractional part 0f the widthr of said insole so as to produce upperand lower mar inal flaps, lasting un upper lining and fol .in the edthereof within the slitted art o the inso e, lasting an upper andfolding the edge thereof outwardly with respect to the insole, attachingthe upper to the lower marginal flap, of the insole, placin'g a welt intuched to the outwardly olded edge of the upper, and then uniting anouter sole and thewelt to the lower marginal llap of thc insole and theoutwardly folded edge of the upper.

The method of making stitch down -lpon a )ist is sltted 9. slices whichconsists in placin an insole the edge portion of w .1 for a distanceegual toa fractional part of the width of 'sa' l upper and low'ermarginal aps, lasting 'an osition tobe atv for a distance equal to afractional part of the width of sald insole so as to produce upper andlower marginal flaps, lasting an upper linin and foldin the ed e thereofAwithin the s itted art o the inso e, lasting an u per and folding theedge thereof outwardlly and into contact with the lower marginal iap ofthe insole, stapling the upper to the lower marginal Hap of the insole,placing a welt upon the outwardly folded edge of the upper, andrattachinan outer sole and the welt to the margina portion of the upper and thelower marginal flap of the inso e.

10. The method of making stitch down shoes which consists in placingupon a last an insole the margin of which is slitted for a distance eual to a fractional part of the .width of sai `insole so as to produceupper and lower marginal aps, lasting an upper lining and attachingtheedge thereof within the slitted art of the insole, lasting an upper andfo ding the edge thereof outwardlywith .respect to the insole, staplingthe upper tothe lower marginal -ap of the insole, said stapling being.independent of the attachment of-said lining within the slitted part ofthe-insole,'placing a welt upon the outwardly folded edge of the upper,said welt being positioned exteriorly to the line I of attachmentbetween the upper and lower marginal flap of the insole, and attachingan outer sole and the welt to the upper and the lower marginalap of theinsole.

' 11. The method of making stitch down shoes which consists inpositioningupon a to the outwardly extende last an insole the margin ofwhich is slitted for a distance equal to a fractional part of the widthof sald insole so as to produce upper'and lower marginal flaps, lastingan upper lining and attac ing the edve portion thereofto said uppermarginal Heap of 'the insole, lasting an up er and folding the marginalportion thereo outwardly with respect to .the insole, attaching theupper to the lower marginal Hap of the insole, and attaching an .outersole to the lower Hap of the insole and to the outwardly extendedportion of the upper.

12. The .method of making stitch down shoes which consists inpositloning upon a, last an insole the margin of which is slitted for adistance equal to a fractional part of the width of sald insole so as toproduce upper and lower marginal iaps, lasting an upper linin andcementing the edge portion thereof wi in the slitted part of the insole,lasting an upper and folding .the marginal portion of said upperoutwardly with reference to the lower marginal ila "o flthe insole,attaching the upper `to sai llower marginal flap of the -insole,.andattaching an outersole to the lower a ofthe insole and marginalportionof the upper.

Intestimony whereof I havev signed my name to this specification -in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.'

' WILLIAM J. KELLY. Witnesses:

CATHERINE y Marmi, J omi H. Stuurman.

